Image courtesy of Plum Diamonds is a women-owned, Responsible Jewelry Council-certified jewelry company that produces lab-grown diamonds in its own facility.
The diamond industry has been controversial from both humanitarian and environmental perspectives for decades. Lab-grown diamonds have received increased attention recently, with many seeing them as a more ethical and environmentally friendly alternative to traditionally mined diamonds. The brands that make them certainly market them as such.
According to research, almost 70% of MillennialsThe majority of the engagement ring diamond market will consider lab-grown diamonds for their engagement rings. In addition to ethical and environmental reasons, many said the lower cost of lab-grown diamonds was an important factor in their decision. According to Report conducted by Bainthe price of lab-grown diamonds is expected to continue to fall, making diamonds available to a larger portion of the market.
But is this shiny solution too good to be true? To find out, we did some research.
First of all, what exactly is a lab-grown diamond?
There is two ways High pressure and high temperature (HPHT) and chemical vapor deposition (CVD) are used to create diamonds in the laboratory. HPHT processes diamonds from graphite using machines that generate extreme pressure or heat to recreate the conditions under which naturally-formed diamonds are created. CVD, on the other hand, is a method for growing solid diamond from a hydrocarbon gas mixture on a substrate material.
Physically, the resulting synthetic diamonds are almost identical to mined diamonds and are absolutely indistinguishable at first glance.
Lab-grown and mined diamonds: environmental impact
Both the total amount of energy required and the type of energy used are important factors to consider when comparing the environmental impact of lab-grown and mined diamonds. For example, a laboratory may use large amounts of energy to produce diamonds, but if that energy comes from a clean, renewable source, it will be more expensive than a mine that uses oil to power its operations. may also be a good option.
“Diamond mining typically requires diesel for trucks and other equipment, and electricity for processing plants,” says industry analyst Paul Zimniski. “Lab diamond production can consume significant amounts of energy, as the growth chamber must sometimes be heated to the temperature of the sun. This process may also require gases such as methane, nitrogen, and boron. ”
Energy and fuel usage varies widely between synthetic diamond laboratories and mines. According to information from 2016 paper Saleem H. Ali, a professor of energy and environment at the University of Delaware, says the Argyle mine in Western Australia uses 4.2 pounds of fuel per carat, while the Diavik mine in remote northern Canada uses diesel to produce 4.2 pounds of fuel per carat. 11.5 pounds of fuel is used per carat. generator.
Meanwhile, when it comes to energy, the Argyle mine requires 7.5 kWh of energy per carat, the synthesis lab Gemesis uses 20 kWh of energy per carat, the Lab Apollo Diamond requires 28 kWh per carat, and the Diavik mine uses 20 kWh of energy per carat. used 66.3 kWh per carat. De Beers’ offshore mine off Namibia’s Skeleton Coast consumed at least 80.3 kWh per carat per year. 2016. These numbers may have changed, but they indicate that neither mines nor laboratories can be considered better than the other.
However, Ali warned in his paper that these numbers should not be taken at face value. For proprietary reasons, diamond producers do not always disclose the materials used to make synthetic diamonds. And this is very important. When relatively abundant metals such as iron and copper are used in production, the environmental impact is significantly lower than when rare earth metals are used in the production process.
Similarly, when it comes to chemical use, unless a company decides to make that information public, it is unclear what exactly is in a lab-grown diamond and how those chemicals are disposed of. There’s no way to really know.
on the other hand, “Diamond mining and recovery typically does not involve chemicals, as the process simply involves crushing the rock until the diamonds are released. “Diamond mining is considered one of the cleanest forms of mining, but water is required to ‘clean’ the diamonds of debris when they are extracted,” says Zimniski.
Looking at the big picture
When discussing sustainability, we can’t stop at facts and figures about environmental impact. Social, economic and humanitarian impacts on local communities are equally important factors to consider, and certain mines (if managed properly) can provide significant benefits to these communities.
“We work with artisan communities of diamond miners to support their empowerment, and diamond mining is an important source of income for these communities and producing countries,” said Zudzia Danielski, Communications Director. Masu. impacta non-profit organization that works to manage the procurement of natural resources in conflict areas. “Lab-grown diamonds divert important income from developing communities. Our work is dedicated to ensuring that natural resources like diamonds support the sustainable development of producing countries and artisanal mining communities. That’s what I do.”
In The Diamonds of Botswana, the third part of Fashionscapes, a docu-series examining the fashion supply chain, Livia Firth talks to people working in Botswana’s diamond mining industry and discovers how the diamond industry It provided many opportunities for local people, including employment, education, and access to technology.
“We were the poorest country in Africa, but diamonds were discovered shortly after independence, and the structures put in place at that time benefited Botswana’s future,” said Lucara Botswana Managing Director. Naseem Rahri told Firth. “I was born in Botswana, I went to school in Botswana, I went to university in Botswana, and I owe it all to Diamond for creating the school where I studied and even my employment rights.”
“In Botswana, all government revenue from minerals is collected in a central pool and used for the development of the country,” says Suzanne Swaniker, CFO, Global Sightholder Sales, De Beers Group. She acknowledges that diamonds are not a renewable resource and that the mines will eventually run out. That’s why it’s important, she says, that governments use the revenue from this industry wisely and invest in developments that create other sustainable industries that will continue to sustain the economy after the diamond mines are mined.
“The socio-economic empowerment that is happening in Botswana thanks to diamonds is a test of what is possible,” says Pat Dambe, vice president of corporate and government relations at De Beers Group. “I am in the diamond industry and everyone I meet in Botswana is a product of Botswana because Botswana has been our heart and soul. It has become the most successful medium-sized economy.
Of course, this is not always the case. There are several examples where diamond mining has had devastating effects on communities and people. for example, the study by Kimberley Process Civil Society Coalition A study of the impact of diamond mining on nearby communities in Lesotho, southern Africa, found alarmingly high levels of nitrates in the water supplies of surrounding villages, as well as a lack of employment opportunities and environmental pollution. another study The same coalition found that 133 children under the age of 15 were working in 13 mining areas in Boda, and an additional 15 each in Berberati and Nora in the Central African Republic.
One of the main responses to the blood diamond outcry was kimberly processaims to eradicate conflict diamonds from global supply chains. However, it’s important to understand how we define conflict diamonds, or “rough diamonds used to finance wars against governments.”
““The Kimberley Process certificate (simply) means that the diamonds were not a source of profit for rebel groups to overthrow the legitimate government,” Zimniski says.
It does not address other impacts associated with diamond production, such as worker conditions and environmental impacts. So while this is a good benchmark for avoiding diamonds used to fund rebels, it doesn’t tell us much more than that.
It’s all about transparency
Unfortunately, there are no hard and fast rules when it comes to choosing between lab and mined diamonds. As with most things in fashion, transparency is more important than material.
“In my opinion, the lab diamond industry is much less transparent than the natural diamond industry, at least at this time,” says Zimnisky. “There is a lot of ‘greenwashing’ going on by many lab diamond companies, which is why this too needs to be addressed on a case-by-case basis. ”
So, in theory, while a lab-grown diamond, It was done If produced under optimal conditions, it has a lower environmental impact than its mined counterpart, but brand claims should be taken with a grain of salt.
Additionally, and this is surprising, mined diamonds (when mined responsibly) provide significant benefits to local communities. If stopped, the livelihoods of these communities could be lost.
“Our view is that the industry needs to support traceability and due diligence requirements so that consumers can make confident choices when purchasing mined diamonds,” says IMPACT’s Danielski. .
Bottom line: Do your research. The jeweler should be able to explain the entire history of the diamond, from where and how it was mined or created to how the jewelry was manufactured and sold.
“I would argue that recycled (reused or used) diamonds have the lowest environmental impact, but that doesn’t usually come up in this conversation,” Zimnisky concludes.
We tend to agree. You can also look for brands like Plum Diamonds that source their metals responsibly and provide lifelong care.
plum diamond We make wedding jewelry and fine jewelry using materials grown in our lab. diamond Responsibly sourced gold and platinum. Its jewelry is made in its own Responsible Jewelry Council-certified manufacturing facility. diamond Producers that meet the same sustainability standards. plum Intentionally designed for timeless style, with free sizing and life-extending care for life.
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